You might have noticed that I haven’t been at the harbor lately or seen my van jamming up and down PCH or parked at a local surf shop in the past few weeks. Why you might ask? Well, after the last contest at Tourmaline, the next day I had a weird bubble in my right eye that wouldn’t go away. As soon as I got back to the desert I called Kaiser and got an appointment with an ophthalmologist and found out I had a detached and torn retina and had to have surgery that night. What a bummer! But even more of a bummer.

I had to lay still for a week and not do anything for four or more weeks.

One minute I felt at the top of my game surfing several days a week and swimming a mile or so at the local pool and the next day everything changed. It was the first time in my life I had any medical issue slowed me down and It was really an eye opener, (no pun intended) and during the past few weeks it gave me time to reflect on things.

This past year some of our club members and circle of friends in our coalition have suffered terrible tragedies and some have had close calls personally and with family members. I do not in any way want to compare this to what they went through but after thinking about everything that happened this year I wanted to offer my feelings.

The meaning for me was how quickly your life can change and we often take what we have for granted.

Every day is a blessing! To be able to spend time with our families and friends and paddle out for a good session with nature is priceless. We all get hung up on things in life and get stressed or lash out at a loved one or maybe someone you don’t even know because they cut you off or took your parking space when you were in a hurry or some minor thing like that.

So think about it the next time someone drops in on you. Turn every encounter into an opportunity to make a new friend or mend a fence with an old one.

We have such a great club and members that care about each other and I am so blessed to have joined it and made such good friends. I see so much love and friendship with our members and I hope we all have a great rest of 2017. Here’s hoping 2018 brings health and happiness to all you love. Every time your able to paddle out or even if you can’t remember every session is a blessin!

– Dave Hilts

Category: Blog